DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY
The month of August in Japan is usually full of natsu-matsuri (summer festivals). For the past two summers, many of these festive celebrations have been canceled due to COVID concerns. Luckily, most of these festivals are back this year, even if often in hybrid form, so I’d like to share some of my experiences.
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A major part of many summer festivals is the bon odori, a series of dances performed with energetic choreography to the rhythm of traditional taiko (Japanese drums).
The “bon” part of the name comes from the Obon Festival, which celebrates the return of the ancestors to the world of the living in mid-August.
Bon odori festivals experienced a real boom from 2010 until 2019, with dances being held every week from early July until late September in different parts of Tokyo. Even in the crowded metropolitan areas, parks would be filled with bon odori fans with some wearing yukata (the Japanese summer kimono) and others in their business attire. Everyone was excited to join the fun and dance into the evening.
This August, Yugyo-ji, a 700-year-old temple in the city of Fujisawa, about 30 miles from Tokyo, held a bon odori festival inside its precincts after a two-year hiatus. Due to safety restrictions, visitors were not able to participate. However, they were given the opportunity to watch and came out in large numbers. We all enjoyed the live music and dancing and dreamed of once again having the chance to join in the excitement.
SHRINES, FLOATS AND PARADES
Another important element of summer festivals at shrines in Japan is the parade of omikoshi (portable shrines). These are sacred palanquins shaped like miniature shrines in which Shinto deities are believed to ride in at the time of the festivals. The omikoshi were traditionally carried on the shoulders of scores of parishioners, but more recently, they can also be pulled or pushed on wheels as it is not unusual for each to weigh over 2,000 pounds.
Courtesy of Olivia S.
Courtesy of Olivia S.
At the end of August, the 1,300-year-old Suwa Shrine, also located in Fujisawa, held its most important festival of the year. It is the only time of the year in which the deity leaves the shrine. Parading the omikoshi around local areas signifies warding off misfortune and wishing for the happiness of the shrine’s parishioners. As you can see in the video below, the parade is led by priests who bless the area as locals join the procession or watch from the sidewalk.
The musical element is not absent from this parade either: vividly decorated dashi (wooden floats) follow the omikoshi, each contributing to the festive atmosphere with drums and/or flutes. Each dashi represents a local area within the city and the beautiful lanterns, flags or drawings they display are boasting the local crafts or traditional wares.
Courtesy of Olivia S.
Courtesy of Olivia S.
Unlike the omikoshi which are physically empty, the dashi are occupied by locals entertaining the deities who are believed to come down from heaven to rest on top of the floats. One can even say that the role of the wooden floats is also to offer omotenashi (hospitality) to the Shinto deities during these festivals. Rotating the float is a chance for each local area to show its skill and vigor as the air is filled with energy at the sight of these coordinated movements.
HANABI
You cannot have a summer festival in Japan without hanabi (fireworks). Up until 2019, these shows would be organized almost every weekend in the Tokyo area. Many hotels or restaurants benefiting from a good view of the fireworks would offer lavish dinner and/or accommodation packages for these special evenings. Many firework enthusiasts also hunted for less well-known and more well-kept secret spots, where they could enjoy the shows in a less crowded fashion.
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After experiencing the 4th of July fireworks on a beach in Galveston some years ago, I decided that beaches are the best for enjoying the displays. The loud launch noises are minimized by the open spaces and waves, and the views are unobstructed by tall buildings. Returning this year after restrictions lifted, Katase Kaiga, the same beach that hosted the Yabusame horseback archery event in April, organized three short three-minute firework shows each last month. These mini shows replaced the usual 40-minute display to avoid a large crowd gathering for a fairly long time. I must confess that I did debate whether or not three minutes would be worth the trip but at the end, I am really glad I decided to go. The local community gathered in fairly large numbers across the large beach; excited shouts could be heard continuously from cute little voices and there was grateful clapping at the end. Altogether, these things proved just how much the return to normalcy means, even in such tiny portions.
FESTIVAL EATS
Food stalls are also a trademark of summer festivals. Takoyaki (octopus poppers) or yakisoba (fried noodles) are some of the savory choices, while kaki-gori (shaved ice) or ringo ame (candied apple) are available for appeasing anyone’s sweet tooth.
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Even though there were no designated places to sit and eat, the food stalls were incredibly popular at the Suwa Shrine this year. The long lines discouraged us from enjoying the specials, but we could enjoy a unique sweet from a local store: “kuzu aisu” - a frozen version of the kuzu rice cake which was perfect for the warm early evening. Sorry that they are half-eaten in the picture, but these treats were truly delicious!
Courtesy of Olivia S.
Japanese summers are still not what they used to be prior to the pandemic, but one can feel more hope through the joy of spending the summer through its characteristic events and traditions. There is also the excitement brought by the relaxation of entry measures to Japan: as of September 7, the submission of a negative COVID test result taken 72 hours or less prior to boarding a Japan-bound flight will no longer be required for all fully vaccinated individuals. The English version of the official announcement will be posted shortly on the official website.