Seasonal Flavors, Colors, and Lights - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · December 12, 2022

Season’s Greetings from Japan!

The autumn season is characterized by rich harvests in almost every country in the northern hemisphere and I hope everyone enjoyed a delicious Thanksgiving surrounded by loved ones. The holiday must have been even sweeter after the Astros became the 2022 World Champions!

In Japan, food plays such an important role in everyday life, making the use of seasonal ingredients another reason to look forward to the changing of season. Locals believe ingredients taste best during their harvesting season, and many chose to use prepare meals based on the available ingredients of the season.

YUZU - A (POTENTALLY!) NEW CITRUS FRUIT

One such ingredient harvested during this time of year is yuzu (pronounced as “you zoo”), a citrus fruit which many online sites describe as “exceptional”! Yuzu’s powerful and distinct aroma adds an exquisite depth to any dish or drink.

While yuzu is not commonly eaten raw, the rind and juice are used as flavorful seasonings. People from Kochi Prefecture, where most of the yuzu is grown, use yuzu instead of vinegar.

The most famous yuzu-based products are ponzu, a soy-sauce-based dressing for tofu, raw fish or shabu-shabu, and yuzu-kosho, a chili paste and yuzu rind mixture that delivers a tasty kick to any hotpot dish.

Yuzu has other uses beyond delighting our palates. Its clean, aromatic scent, which relaxes the body and calms the mind, makes it a frequent addition to hot baths everywhere from personal bathtubs to hot springs — particularly on and around the Winter Solstice or Toji (冬至).

A YUZU-CENTRIC WORKSHOP

When the opportunity to attend a workshop focused on yuzu was announced, I was excited to learn first-hand how to make some yuzu-based products from scratch. It promised to be another great experience since it was held by the same amazing Suenaga-sensei who taught the pickled ume boshi (pickled Japanese apricot) workshop back in June. This workshop was also held in Takara-no-niwa (“The Treasure Garden”) in Kita-Kamakura. You can read more about the ume workshop by visiting the Rainy Season: Pickles and Flowers entry [HERE].

As with the ume boshi experience, the day began with the picking of yuzu fruit directly from the garden. I was so excited none of the fruit landed on my head this time as yuzu are easily 3-4 times bigger, and heavier, than ume. However, while I remained safe from falling fruit, I did manage to get caught in the thorns of some branches. I clearly have more to learn about fruit picking!

Each of the eight workshop participants harvested between 10-12 yuzu. We worked together to remove the branches and stems before carefully washing our fruit. After everything was prepped, we were divided into two groups: one grated the yuzu peel and the other removed stems and seeds from chili peppers. The ladies who wore glasses were asked to handle the chili peppers after putting on plastic gloves as the peppers were quite spicy.

When grating the yuzu peel, we had to pay attention not to take off too much of the yellow rind as the white flesh beneath can be quite bitter and completely change the flavor. The peeled fruit was then cut in half and as many seeds as possible were removed. Once everything was ready, the yuzu halves had to be juiced by hand over a strainer to collect any left-over seeds.

Finally, we had collected the three yuzu-based products for the workshop: freshly grated peel, juice, and seeds.

The peel was mixed with the chili peppers, some of the yuzu juice, and salt to prepare a delicious yuzu kosho paste. The rest of the juice was mixed with soy sauce, dry konbu (kelp) and dried bonito flakes to prepare a ponzu vinaigrette. Lastly, shochu (Japanese liquor) was poured over the yuzu seeds to prepare fragrance for a skin lotion. Each product received a cute, handmade label.

Just as in June, the step-by-step process was provided in handwritten notes, accompanied by Suenaga-sensei’s cute illustrations.

Although we barely had time to glance at the sheets during the workshop, reading these notes at home brings back the warm memories of preparing everything together under our teacher’s guidance.

Each of the participants were delighted to take home so many hand-made yuzu-based items. Additionally, our sensei prepared a sumptuous meal of miso and vegetable soup, white rice, hand-made pickles (ume boshi too, of course!) and hoji-cha (roasted green tea). It was wonderful!

The time flew by during this three-hour workshop, which I shall contribute to my being able to make so many items using one of my favorite ingredients, yuzu.

LIGHTING UP THE NIGHT

Koyo, enjoying the changing leaves, is the fall equivalent of hanami in the spring, and many gardens and temples are blessed with gorgeous displays of vibrant colors this time of year. These sights can be admired during the day or in artistic night-time lighting set-ups known as illuminations.

Hase-dera, a famous Buddhist temple in Kamakura, is celebrating 1300 years since its establishment by holding a special 10-day autumn light show. Instead of utilizing a screen or a wall, designs are being projected onto two main temple buildings. The colors bring the significant architectural elements of the temple to life, transporting viewers into a different dimension while keeping them rooted in their auspicious surroundings.

Fortunately, this commemorative light show coincides with a 3-week-long autumn illumination event on the temple grounds, so visitors can enjoy the unique atmosphere of both celebrations.

The final priceless experience was seeing the 30-feet Buddha statue, the Honzon or principal object of worship at this temple, in its entirety. Usually, it is hidden from view by other Buddhist objects, especially from the knees down, so seeing it from head to toe evokes a mystic feeling, regardless of the many other people around.

Unfortunately, taking pictures was not allowed, so please visit the temple’s official website (Japanese only) to see some of the images available.

From the food to the sights — the transition from fall to winter in Japan is certainly spectacular!

Summer Celebrations - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · September 1, 2022

DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY

The month of August in Japan is usually full of natsu-matsuri (summer festivals). For the past two summers, many of these festive celebrations have been canceled due to COVID concerns. Luckily, most of these festivals are back this year, even if often in hybrid form, so I’d like to share some of my experiences.

A major part of many summer festivals is the bon odori, a series of dances performed with energetic choreography to the rhythm of traditional taiko (Japanese drums).

The “bon” part of the name comes from the Obon Festival, which celebrates the return of the ancestors to the world of the living in mid-August.

Bon odori festivals experienced a real boom from 2010 until 2019, with dances being held every week from early July until late September in different parts of Tokyo. Even in the crowded metropolitan areas, parks would be filled with bon odori fans with some wearing yukata (the Japanese summer kimono) and others in their business attire. Everyone was excited to join the fun and dance into the evening.

This August, Yugyo-ji, a 700-year-old temple in the city of Fujisawa, about 30 miles from Tokyo, held a bon odori festival inside its precincts after a two-year hiatus. Due to safety restrictions, visitors were not able to participate. However, they were given the opportunity to watch and came out in large numbers. We all enjoyed the live music and dancing and dreamed of once again having the chance to join in the excitement.

SHRINES, FLOATS AND PARADES

Another important element of summer festivals at shrines in Japan is the parade of omikoshi (portable shrines). These are sacred palanquins shaped like miniature shrines in which Shinto deities are believed to ride in at the time of the festivals. The omikoshi were traditionally carried on the shoulders of scores of parishioners, but more recently, they can also be pulled or pushed on wheels as it is not unusual for each to weigh over 2,000 pounds.

At the end of August, the 1,300-year-old Suwa Shrine, also located in Fujisawa, held its most important festival of the year. It is the only time of the year in which the deity leaves the shrine. Parading the omikoshi around local areas signifies warding off misfortune and wishing for the happiness of the shrine’s parishioners. As you can see in the video below, the parade is led by priests who bless the area as locals join the procession or watch from the sidewalk.

The musical element is not absent from this parade either: vividly decorated dashi (wooden floats) follow the omikoshi, each contributing to the festive atmosphere with drums and/or flutes. Each dashi represents a local area within the city and the beautiful lanterns, flags or drawings they display are boasting the local crafts or traditional wares.

Unlike the omikoshi which are physically empty, the dashi are occupied by locals entertaining the deities who are believed to come down from heaven to rest on top of the floats. One can even say that the role of the wooden floats is also to offer omotenashi (hospitality) to the Shinto deities during these festivals. Rotating the float is a chance for each local area to show its skill and vigor as the air is filled with energy at the sight of these coordinated movements.

HANABI

You cannot have a summer festival in Japan without hanabi (fireworks). Up until 2019, these shows would be organized almost every weekend in the Tokyo area. Many hotels or restaurants benefiting from a good view of the fireworks would offer lavish dinner and/or accommodation packages for these special evenings. Many firework enthusiasts also hunted for less well-known and more well-kept secret spots, where they could enjoy the shows in a less crowded fashion.

After experiencing the 4th of July fireworks on a beach in Galveston some years ago, I decided that beaches are the best for enjoying the displays. The loud launch noises are minimized by the open spaces and waves, and the views are unobstructed by tall buildings. Returning this year after restrictions lifted, Katase Kaiga, the same beach that hosted the Yabusame horseback archery event in April, organized three short three-minute firework shows each last month. These mini shows replaced the usual 40-minute display to avoid a large crowd gathering for a fairly long time. I must confess that I did debate whether or not three minutes would be worth the trip but at the end, I am really glad I decided to go. The local community gathered in fairly large numbers across the large beach; excited shouts could be heard continuously from cute little voices and there was grateful clapping at the end. Altogether, these things proved just how much the return to normalcy means, even in such tiny portions.

FESTIVAL EATS

Food stalls are also a trademark of summer festivals. Takoyaki (octopus poppers) or yakisoba (fried noodles) are some of the savory choices, while kaki-gori (shaved ice) or ringo ame (candied apple) are available for appeasing anyone’s sweet tooth.

Even though there were no designated places to sit and eat, the food stalls were incredibly popular at the Suwa Shrine this year. The long lines discouraged us from enjoying the specials, but we could enjoy a unique sweet from a local store: “kuzu aisu” - a frozen version of the kuzu rice cake which was perfect for the warm early evening. Sorry that they are half-eaten in the picture, but these treats were truly delicious!

Japanese summers are still not what they used to be prior to the pandemic, but one can feel more hope through the joy of spending the summer through its characteristic events and traditions. There is also the excitement brought by the relaxation of entry measures to Japan: as of September 7, the submission of a negative COVID test result taken 72 hours or less prior to boarding a Japan-bound flight will no longer be required for all fully vaccinated individuals. The English version of the official announcement will be posted shortly on the official website.

For Sport Fans and Foodies - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · August 5, 2022

BASEBALL IN JAPAN

Calling all Astros fans and lovers of baseball! Ever wonder what it’s like to attend a baseball game in Japan?

2022 marks the 150th anniversary of baseball’s arrival in Japan!

First introduced in 1872, baseball was spread throughout Japan in the 1870s and 1880s by American teachers and missionaries. Japan saw its first professional baseball team founded in the 1930s. And by the end of World War II, baseball had become Japan’s most popular participatory and spectator sport.

**History buffs: click here for a comparative study on the history and culture of baseball in both Japan and the US.

Japan has developed quite a formidable baseball culture.

It will come as no surprise that attending a baseball game in Japan has clearly defined rules. Starting with the ticket purchase: the home team seats are clearly divided from the visitor team seats. Fans wishing to wear their team’s gear are asked, not once but twice during the online purchasing process, not to do so unless they purchase seats in their respective team areas.

AT A JAPANESE BASEBALL GAME

The game we attended was in Yokohama — the second largest city in Japan, located only about 40 miles, or 20-30 minutes by train, from Tokyo.

The local team, Yokohama DeNA Baystars, is one of the six teams that make up Japan’s Central League. Together with the six teams of the Pacific League, there are 12 teams at the core of Japan’s professional baseball world.

On a summer Sunday in July, we watched the DeNA Baystars face off against the Hiroshima Toyo Carp.

For a bit of perspective, both teams are currently in the lower half of the Central League in terms of 2022 standings. However, the Hiroshima team has won the league championship three times since 2015. The Yokohama team has not earned a title in 23 years.

FANS

Fans of both teams do not seem to dwell on standings, past or present, and support their teams wholeheartedly — not only by attending games in large numbers and wearing team gear, but also by chanting team songs when their team is up to bat!

The stadium stands were awash with vivid Yokohama blue and Hiroshima red!

It was impressive to see the large number of Hiroshima fans who came out for the game despite the distance between Hiroshima and Yokohama. (The two cities are separated by around 500 miles or a 3.5-hour ride on the shinkansen or bullet train!)

As our seats were in the Hiroshima Carp fan section, we had a first-hand view of Hiroshima cheering traditions.

Fans enthusiastically and continuously cheered for their team with inflatable mini baseball bats tapping in time with team chants. A large drum and team flag would also be used at the top of each inning but would be put away just before the first pitch of the inning was thrown so as to ensure spectators fully enjoy, without distraction, the live action on the field.

In between innings, a couple of hundred youth cheerleaders provided entertainment, dancing enthusiastically to the Yokohama team song in front of the home team stand. (I bet they were probably dreaming of one day being selected to become one of the very few to cheer on their team at every home game!)

CONCESSIONS

The Yokohama Stadium concession stands are very similar to the ones found in American stadiums. All the staples you might expect —- hotdogs, hamburgers, pizza — are available alongside traditional Japanese eats like edamame, sushi and ramen.

In addition, energetic beer girls, dressed in the uniform of their designated drink brand, walk the aisles of the stadium carrying a large backpack full of draft beer, raising their hands to attract the attention of thirsty baseball fans.

Upon spotting an interested party, the roaming servers let the beer flow from the portable tap, their smiling eyes not betraying one bit the strenuous work they endure in the heat and helping clients completely forget the 30-40% markup compared to the beer served at the concession stands!

Since the temperature in Yokohama was in the 90s, cold drinks and icy deserts were the treats of choice during the whopping 12-inning game.

I found the Yokohama stadium’s specialty — mikan kakigoori (shaved ice with Japanese mandarin compote topping) — to be very addictive!

The short of it is, you definitely don’t have to be a baseball fanatic to have a good time at a Japanese baseball game! And before you know it, you’ll be joining in the chanting!

POST-GAME DINNER

After an enjoyable but hot baseball afternoon, we decided to end our day in Yokohama with dinner nearby. Since the largest Chinatown in Japan lies within a 10-minute walk of Yokohama stadium, an authentic Chinese dinner it was.

Out of the 280 restaurants there, we chose a Sichuan place where mabo tofu (soft cubes of tofu accompanied by tasty bits of ground pork, scallion, and Sichuan peppercorns, in a spicy, chili-based sauce) is the signature, and therefore must-try, dish.

We were definitely not the only foodies attracted to the spicy offerings - several other baseball fans walked into the restaurant still wearing their team gear. For the full experience, we chose an evening course with six dishes priced very affordably at under $20/person. Everything was so delicious that we completely forgot to take photos and only the appetizers were immortalized with this shot!

The walk back to the station through the vividly colored streets filled with Chinese architecture made us feel we had somehow crossed the ocean and landed in another country.

Japan can often make a foodie feel that they have teleported across the globe, just like in the Hollywood movies. International cuisine is raised to an artistic level; but by adding local ingredients or spices, you are reminded that you are actually still in the Land of the Rising Sun!

Whether your a sports fan or a foodie, Yokohama has something for you!

Rainy Season: Pickles & Flowers - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · July 1, 2022

RAINY DAYS & UME

From mid-June to mid-July, Japan usually experiences its fifth season of the year - the rainy season, or tsuyu (梅雨).

The word tsuyu is composed of two characters — ume (梅), the Japanese apricot, and ame (雨), the rain.

So why is Japan’s rainy season associated with the apricot? Because it is during the time of constant, gentle rains that the ume trees bear fruit.

As you may recall from the March entry of my Omotenashi blog, ume trees first blossom as the winter snow and ice begin to melt, preceding the famous sakura as a harbinger of spring. And once the ume trees bear fruit, the fruit must either be pickled or steeped in alcohol before consumption.

GET PICKLING

Being a fan of the pickled Japanese apricot or ume boshi, I decided to participate in a workshop to learn how to make the little mouth-puckering delights.

The workshop was being held in an idyllic location - Takara-no-niwa in Kita Kamakura, which is a one-hour drive or train ride from Tokyo Station.

Takara-no-niwa, which can be translated as “The Treasure Garden,” is a beautiful event space known for its 80-year-old traditional Japanese house (kominka) with an ample garden and labyrinth-like pathways that allow one to reunite with nature. Additional “treasures” include a cafe and a pottery kiln.

Upon arriving at Takara-no-niwa, and prior to the start of the pickling workshop, I was served a delicious and healthy bento lunch of simmered pork, steamed rice, and sides dishes that included a Japanese omelet and four vegetable-based dishes. Another special touch was that over 70% of the bento was composed of ume-based food - all prepared by the workshop instructor herself, Suenaga-sensei.

The workshop began with the obvious mission of picking the ume fruit from the garden trees. Nine students, eager to learn the art of pickling, put on insect repellent spray kindly provided by our sensei, and followed her into the garden. It was a stroll accompanied by explanations of the edible garden plants often used in Japanese cuisine.

We worked together diligently to reach the fruit bearing branches - and were successful in harvesting what turned out to be almost 20 pounds of ume. I actually was “honored” to have a couple Japanese apricots land precisely on my head!

Upon our victorious return to the workshop space, we proceeded to wash the harvest, pat the fruits dry, remove the stems, and separate the riper, yellow fruits. With only about two pounds of yellow ume, we were lucky Suenaga-sensei knew a quick trick to overcome the late ripening this year: drop the still mostly green ume in boiling water for 20 seconds!

This turned their color a pale yellow and we could then proceed to the next step as we waited for the ume to cool.

After dividing the fruit into two-pound portions and measuring out the salt for each portion, we covered the ume in the salt and combined the salty fruits with some distilled sake called shochu (焼酎). By the end of the day, each of the workshop participants was the proud owner of a Ziploc bag full of fresh ume boshi!

The workshop took about 2.5 hours, but felt much shorter, filled with the numerous tasks mentioned above. We all worked together in an assembly-line-like operation, closely guided by Suenaga-sensei.

Our busy teacher did not want us to leave too hungry or thirsty, so she prepared a sponge cake filled with ume syrup and a soda made from shiso leaves, an herb in the mint family. Needless to say, these homemade treats were truly delicious and felt so rewarding!

We all received some homework, too! A couple of weeks following the initial pickling process — when the pickled ume mix generates enough ume vinegar — the fruit must be allowed to dry out in the sun for three consecutive days. The rainy season has been a record short one this year, so this process of drying out the ume naturally has already started.

Once the drying process is complete, the dried ume and the ume vinegar will be reunited, and the ume will be allowed to ferment for another two or three months, so that the full flavor develops.

So…. I still have a long way to go until I get to taste my first homemade ume boshi, but I am optimistic that they will be edible! Fingers crossed!

While it was hard to remember all the steps in the pickling process during the workshop, the handwritten instructions (yes, handwritten and even containing small illustrations!) have proven to be priceless. I was surprised by this analog approach then too, especially considering that Suenaga-sensei regularly shares updates on her social media accounts. But now, as I reread her instructions at home, I feel the care with which our teacher approaches ume pickling and her passion for sharing her culinary skills with others.

RAINY DAYS & FLOWERS

As rain falls for days and sometimes weeks at a time during the rainy season, I have found that one of the best ways to overcome the seasonal dreariness is enjoying the beautiful hydrangeas or ajisai (紫陽花).

The ancient city of Kamakura, Japan’s capital during the 12th century, is probably the most popular destination in the Tokyo area for enjoying the hydrangeas. Temples like Meigetsu-in or Enkaku-ji offer such beautiful hydrangea gardens that to visit, even on rainy weekdays, requires a large amount of patience.

This year, in my quest for a less-packed hydrangea experience, I discovered the Kita Kamakura Kominka Museum. As per its name, it is located in a traditional Japanese mansion, which hosts regular exhibitions throughout its ample two-floor space. I had the chance to enjoy an adorable collection of pottery and paintings, focused on animals such as hippos, dogs, cats, and turtles.

This museum also boasts over 100 hydrangea shrubs along the narrow walkway encircling the building. For visitors keen to walk the grounds in the rain, these splashes of color are a feast for the eyes.

There are over 100 varieties of hydrangeas of various colors in Japan today.

Here’s to enjoying all that the rainy season promises and more!

Modern & Classic, Outdoors - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · June 3, 2022

MODERN ART, OUTDOORS

For most, “Hakone” conjures dreams of soaking in famous onsen (hot spring) waters or taking in idyllic views of Mount Fuji. The beautiful, Kanagawa Prefecture resort area, located only about 60 miles from Tokyo, is one of the most popular destinations for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the big city.

And while this area in the heart of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park may be known for its natural beauty, modern art is a growing part of Hakone’s allure. Hakone is home to extraordinary museums, and The Hakone Open-Air Museum is one of the most popular.

Even though it was inaugurated over 50 years ago, Japan’s first open-air museum looks as fresh as ever, covering an area equal to 13 football fields, which, considering the well-known lack of space in Japan’s urban areas, is incredibly huge.

Around 120 modern and contemporary art pieces make up the museum’s permanent outdoor exhibition that is wrapped in nature’s green embrace.

While many art pieces are abstract, some depict the human body, in its entirety or in parts, and serve as a visual reminder of human’s connection the environment.

And on a day blessed with a bright blue sky, one feels like the art could take off and fly.

There are several areas where children seem to absolutely have a blast, allowing their parents to take a break.

sunny-side-up eggs invite little visitors to lounge on top of the yolk;
a maze with adult-height walls summons laughter and frantic running;
hand-knitted nets to crawl in or jump on, bursting with colors, hidden in a wooden dome.

Two restaurants and a cafe offer space for recharging, but the museum also allows guests to bring in food and drinks from outside - and a konbini (Japanese convenience store) is perfectly located within walking distance!

Finding an open bench may take some time during the lunch hours, but satisfying your taste buds and stomach, while admiring sculptures and feeling the light breeze, is well-worth it a wait for a good spot.

While most of the art is to be found outdoors, one can also visit six indoor pavilions. One such pavilion is focused on presenting Picasso’s lesser-known, but equally-enchanting pottery art work, along with quotes that offer glimpses into the Spanish artist’s creative philosophy.

Another pavilion is a tower-like structure with a name that roughly translates as “A Symphony that Calls for Joy”. One has to step inside to understand why it was named so, and due to the long queue to enter, we almost gave up!

Beautifully-colored stained glass adorns most of the 60-feet tall building’s circular walls, and visitors can admire this beautiful spectacle of lights while climbing and descending a spiral staircase in the center of the tower. The amazing 360-degree view from its roof terrace is definitely making you forget the effort it may have taken to reach it!

GETTING THERE

Regardless of where in the Tokyo metropolis area you are located, it takes a combination of at least one train, one bus and some patience to reach this exceptional museum. I must confess I was a little baffled at the crowded, slow-moving mountain train that served as the last leg of the journey. Still, the beauty we encountered filled our hearts with joy, bidding us to visit again and add an overnight stay at an onsen ryokan (a Japanese-style hotel offering hot spring baths on its premises) to future plans — knowing this would allow us to queue and wait for a less-crowded train/bus to better enjoy the ride and admire the wonderful views.

After walking through the sprawling Hakone Open Air Museum, the foot bath areas of this famed onsen-town provide a place to relax your tired feet in hot spring water. And if you happen to come unprepared to soak, vending machines offer small towels for around $1.

CLASSIC CARS, OUTDOORS

Art of a more mobile form is also put on display outdoors through a classic car rally that follows a scenic route through Kanagawa Prefecture.

About 60 classic sports cars produced in Europe and the US between 1925 and 1973 participate in the 3-day event. Famous brands such as Bugatti, Bentley, Fiat, Mercedes Benz and Porsche, were joined by some historic brands like Austin Healey, MG and Triumph.

On the last day of the event, the classic beauties can be spotted crossing the bridge into and from Enoshima, in the City of Fujisawa.

TRAVELING TO JAPAN

June brings some positive news about entering Japan!

Starting on June 10th, tourists will once again be allowed to travel to Japan, after more than 2 years of strict border control. While trips need to be organized by an entity (tourism agency, etc.) and a visa is required, this is definitely an important step forward. For more information, please visit the official government page.

Local Colors: Yabusame & Flowers - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · May 6, 2022

A regular Saturday morning in Kanagawa on the Katase Higashihama Beach under the mid-April sun? Not quite!

On this day, archers dressed in traditional regalia outnumbered surfers, transporting those gathering on the sandy shores back to a time when yabusame defined the skill of a samurai warrior.

**WHAT IS YABUSAME (流鏑馬)?**

Yabusame (pronounced “yah-boo-sah-meh”) is a type of traditional Japanese archery performed on horseback. Archers are required to shoot at three targets on their left while riding horses that gallop over a distance of about 700 feet or more.

Records indicate yabusame dates back to the end of 6th century and was part of a religious ceremony carried out during seasonal festivals.
The first Shogun, Minamoto no Yoritomo, is said to have turned yabusame into a martial art that samurai warriors were encouraged to master and actively use in battle.
With the arrival of western rifles in the second half of 15th century, yabusame became virtually ineffective in battle.
Once peace was established in the early 1600s, yabusame was relegated to the status of traditional Japanese martial art.

Competitive forms of yabusame are still practiced today. However, traditional Japanese archery has become the centerpiece of a sacred Shinto ritual that involves arrows being released as a prayer for peace, rich harvests and good health.

(For more details on Yabusame, please visit the official page of The Japan Equestrian Archery Association).

YABUSAME ON THE BEACH

Beautiful waves of local Sagami Bay, dotted with surfers and sail boats, form the backdrop.

The beach is edged with nearly 1,000 feet of rope, demarcating the yabusame riding course.

An eager audience gathers early, lining the course with picnic mats and blankets while awaiting a wonderful spectacle.

During the first hour of the event, the public can enjoy a parade of individuals depicting the first Shogun and his 13 Lords (based on the popular period series you must know plenty about by now!). Humans and horses alike proceed along a designated path in colorful regalia — over 40-pounds of armor, including helmets, swords, headpieces, and body adornments.

The parade is followed by a Shinto ritual traditionally associated with yabusame in which a blessing is conferred on the event.

From noon, an archer on horseback performs the Tencho Chikyu ritual in which an archer draws his/her bow in a manner that creates a circle resembling the full moon. The archer’s arrow is first aimed at the sky in a prayer for peace and then aimed at the ground in a prayer for rich harvest. The arrow is never released, adding grandeur to the performance while showcasing the archer’s skill.

Finally, the stage is set for the main show to begin!

Five horseback archers (four gentlemen and one lady) are given five runs. During each run, the archers shoot towards three targets positioned 2.6 feet apart, requiring them to pull their second and the third arrows while galloping along the sandy riding course.

To ensure a thrilling performance, the targets are changed between the first three runs and the last two runs.

The targets used in the early runs were 1.8 feet squares decorated with five colored circles symbolizing the five grains, and made of Japanese cypress. The targets used in the later rounds were nearly half the size and made of a much softer wood. This allows them to shatter when hit — much to the delight of the public.

These two types of targets also separate the religious ritual runs from the competitive runs.

The archers on horseback perform in the same order each time — from the most senior to the most junior.

Although the first archer is always the most skilled competitor, it is still exciting to watch the full-speed gallop of the archers. Often time the horses are galloping at a speed that makes it difficult for the archers to pull their arrows and position themselves in time to shoot at each target. A slower-paced gallop seemed to improve the accuracy of the archers.

In one instance, the horse and its archer fell while galloping! But when the archer, seemingly not caring at all about his own possible injuries, carefully examined the horse and determined no injuries were inflicted, the audience breathed a collective sigh of relief and cheered them on with applause.

With many public events still being postponed or scaled back due to the lingering pandemic, attending this yabusame event filled one with energy and delight. So, despite the limited publicity around the young event, word-of-mouth publicity will undoubtedly bring even a greater audience at its next (the third!) edition.

Bright & Sustainable

Matching this colorful step back in time was another local event - one involving real-life canvases of 23,000 petunias, nemophilas, marigolds and many others — around 20 types of flowers.

Under the simple theme of “bright,” Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse succeeded in bringing brightness to the many days still being spent indoors, as well as hope for a brighter future rooted in sustainability. The reuse of scrapped cars, tires, jeans or TVs allowed the once-waste objects to come back to life in a fun, photo-worthy manner!

From TV to a Place Nearby - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · April 1, 2022

March 1, 2022 marked the opening of a different kind of exhibition in Kamakura: one dedicated to a Japanese period TV series called “The 13 Lords of the Shogun” (“The 13 Lords”), which premiered in January 2022 and will run for the entire year on Sunday evenings from 8:00 pm.

This is not the first time for such an exhibition to open in Japan. In fact, from the beginning of the 21st century, exhibitions entirely based on “taiga” television series have been held all across Japan, their locations coinciding with the regions highlighted in the respective TV pieces.

To my amazement, I learned during my visit that a similar but smaller exhibition is also on display in the Izu peninsula, about 50 miles southwest of Kamakura, an area where the Hojo clan has roots.

THE TV SERIES

In 2022, the taiga TV series, or taiga dramas (大河ドラマ) as they are also known, reached the beautiful age of 61, living up to their “large river” name. These long-running, large-scale historical sagas air during Japan’s “Golden Time” broadcast programming block, allowing viewers to end the week in style. A large majority of the 61 taiga TV series produced to date are period pieces, serving as proof of how much Japanese enjoy refresher history lessons mixed with entertainment. And the entertainment factor is exceptionally high, since the taiga TV series always features the most popular actors of the year alongside veteran stars.

“The 13 Lords” is no exception to the taiga template. Currently, “The 13 Lords” features more than 15 well-established Japanese actors, and much to the the excitement of the show’s fans, actors are being added as the story evolves and characters develops.

An interesting boost to this year’s taiga series has come in the form of the inclusion of two famous representatives from Japan’s comedy world.

One is Mr. Koki Mitani, arguably the nation’s most well-known dramatist, who brings his signature element of the unexpected to the “The 13 Lords” screenplay. You may know Mitani as the creator of movies such as “Suite Dreams” or “Magic Hour”.

The other notable representative from Japanese comedy involved in “The 13 Lords” is Mr. Yo Oizumi, whose performances weave together comedic and heartwarming moments. While most of Oizumi’s movies are for domestic distribution, “Restaurant in the Sky” is one of his recent works promoted at US film festivals.

“The 13 Lords” goes back about 800 years to a time marked by a change in leadership, with power shifting from the Imperial Court to the military government of the Shogun from the western capital of Kyoto to the eastern one of Kamakura, which is just about 40 miles south of Tokyo. Thus, while the main historical events depicted are important and well-known, the creators of the series chose to focus on the lesser-known Hojo clan, which controlled the Shogun’s advisory council and officially served as a regent of the shogunate.

Taiso Yoshitoshi. *Minamoto Yoritomo on Horseback Attacking an Enemy*, 1886.

Specifically, the series centers on the clan’s third-born, Yoshitoki Hojo, the only regent lord out of the initial 13 who survives the political power games. (FUN FACT: Mr. Mitani, the series playwright, joked at a press conference for ”The 13 Lords” that Yohitoki Hojo’s in-spite-of-all-odds story resembles the story told in Mario Puzo’s “The Godfather”). Yoshitoki’s successful yet lonely journey is embodied for the series by the charismatic Mr. Shun Oguri, who stars in several series available on Netflix, the most recent being “Japan Sinks”.

Overall, the ”The 13 Lords” story is one of negotiations and battles, of alliances and betrayals, of both brotherly and romantic love, and with the 13th episode airing on the first Sunday in April, it promises to keep the audience wanting more.

THE EXHIBITION

It was quite hard to believe the museum building is 65 years old! Besides being extremely well-kept, its modern, simple look is the product of Mr. Junzo Sakakura’s designs, an apprentice of the grand French architect Le Corbusier.

“The 13 Lords” exhibition is hosted by the Tsurugaoka Museum, on the premises of the 800-year-old Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, the largest and most well-known Shinto shrine in Kamakura city, which was Japan’s capital for almost 150 years.

Why here? It’s definitely not a coincidence that the historical figure who had the shrine built is one of the main characters of the TV series, Minamoto no Yoritomo - the founder and first Shogun of the Kamakura shogunate.

The entire site is in harmony with the natural environment, incorporating Japanese architectural elements and construction materials, creating a truly unique and peaceful atmosphere.

The “The 13 Lords” exhibition fills an entire floor with displays that offer something for everyone!

Four screen displays allow visitors to access the stories of the central characters through no-touch hand movements from a designated place in front of the displays. This truly made me feel that the futuristic world of “Minority Report” has become reality, only 20 years after we considered it pure science fiction.

An extensive and colorful display of costumes actually worn by the main characters is made even more valuable in fans’ eyes by the makeup stains visible in places. Standing right next to the costumes are life-size cardboard cutouts of some of the main characters, which make for some great selfies!

A spacious photo booth with an exquisite golden folding screen in the background, recreates the feeling of a traditional tatami mansion room, similar to the ones most indoor scenes are filmed in for the series. Moreover, traditional hats, similar to the ones worn by the series’ male characters to signify noble background, are also available to help visitors transform into the characters they watch every week;

A screening area equipped with about 20 chairs offers two behind-the-scenes videos, with narration by a historian that emphasizes the research that went into recreating the events of the day. This is probably the most popular part of the exhibition, allowing fans to catch their breath after enjoying the previous exhibit areas, all while learning unique facts.
From the dark screening area, the exhibit continues outdoors with a large panel clarifying the characters’ intricate relationships and the historic timeline - an amazing family tree of “The 13 Lords”, which draws visitors in for careful examination.

The last stop on the exhibition floor is a display of shikishi boards bearing the signatures the most famous performers in the series. They also contain short messages written in the stars’ handwriting, providing yet another way to feel closer to the world created on screen. Empty spaces around the shikishi boards stand out, encouraging fans to let their imagination explore who else may become part of “The 13 Lords” world.

A visit to the exhibition would not be complete without a stop at the souvenir shop! Since we are in Japan where culinary souvenirs are held in such high regard, one can find an extensive selection of sweets and snacks, beautifully wrapped or boxed. But one can also find souvenirs from the series that last longer: T-shirts, caps, towels, totes, lots of stationery and much more!

Personally, I had to add “The 13 Lords” to my “clear file” collection. These lovely plastic folders not only help you organize paperwork but also remind you of places you visited.

After so much excitement, fans must feel content and ready to head back home… and still one more exciting attraction is available. A special portrait poster that moves and talks!

You only need a smartphone to access the dedicated website and then capture the exhibition poster with your phone camera - you can then hear and see the poster’s protagonist and PR rep, Hojo-san, inviting you to visit the exhibition, while using old Japanese narration and changing facial expressions to make it all more fun. The AR poster is a product of a local Kamakura IT design company and can be found in 350 places across the city, such as train stations, bus terminals and shopping arcades. The poster can also be experienced on this website (Japanese only).

*Courtesy of Taiga Drama “Kamakura Dono no 13 Nin”*

Even after 15 years of living in Japan, I continue to be amazed by Japan’s inventivity that continues to generate new attractions. A period TV series running for a whole year can become the theme of a 10.5-month exhibition - because, through a well-balanced combination of traditional display and hi-tech elements, it brings the world of the TV screen closer to its fans. It seems it might be possible the series’ stars may actually visit the exhibition and, if announced in advance, that would be a total success!

U & me & Ume - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · March 3, 2022

When one hears blossoms in connection to Japan, the sakura or cherry blossom is most definitely the one that comes to mind. Today I would like to introduce you to its earlier counterpart - ume (pronounced “oomea”) or the Japanese apricot - blooming in February-early March.

It is truly a lovely gift from mother nature, just as spring is peaking its head into our lives year after year. In the language of flowers that is much appreciated in Japan, the ume blossoms indicate integrity, fidelity, and also endurance, since the ume trees sometimes bloom surrounded by snow.

ODAWARA UME FESTIVAL

Even if it does make for a gorgeous picture, there was no snow in my case. Fortunately, the weather was quite the opposite!

At the end of February, enjoying a gorgeous sunny day of low 60s, my husband and I had the chance to visit the picturesque Soga Bairin, in the city of Odawara, about 50 miles southeast of Tokyo, as it hosted the Odawara Ume Festival at its 52nd edition.

This ume grove is among the three (3) largest in the Kanto region (Tokyo and the six surrounding prefectures) with approximately 35,000 ume trees, most of them bearing white flowers, a sign of them also bearing the edible ume fruit.

The large number of trees is also proof of the history of this crop in the region, which is said to be longer than 600 years, with the pickled ume initially constituting a part of the military provisions back in the day.

A short note on the ume fruit, which is translated as Japanese plum:

Tasting it will probably not remind you of either a plum or an apricot. Japanese almost never enjoy it raw - the ume fruit is normally pickled to become a great soury companion to the rice (ume boshi), or used to make a delicious sweet liquor (umeshu), not to mention the variety of snacks it can be turned into as a dried fruit. So, I guess you would just have to go out on a limb and try tasting it next time you find it in a Japanese supermarket or restaurant - hopefully you like it and add it to the list of delicious Japanese foods you enjoy.

Ume boshi (stock image) — Ume Boshi (stock image)

The word “idyllic” suits this ume grove not only because of the absolutely stunning blossoms, but because the location can hardly be considered a tourist attraction, except for this one month during the year when the blossoms attract hundreds daily; otherwise it is a quiet countryside area, where its inhabitants tend to the ume trees, but also grow mikans (mandarine oranges), kiwis and/or blueberries.

GETTING THERE

After getting off at the Shimo-Soga station, the ume blossom enthusiasts follow some basic signs through the local streets and farm roads, taking in their sweet smell (even through the masks worn even outdoors in Japan) and trying to visually capture their beauty with cell phones and professional cameras alike.

While the ume flowers seem to be everywhere, it takes about 15 minutes to reach the festival area, which includes parking spaces for those who prefer to use their own vehicles and shops selling locally made products.

Photos by Olivia S.

In the past years, performances such as the local lion dance (registered as an intangible folk cultural asset), the paper lantern dance or the very popular horseback archery were some of the main attractions of the ume festival. This year, unfortunately, performances were all canceled in order to avoid large gatherings and keep visitors safe.

Thus, in a much quieter, but still cheerful atmosphere, many visitors pick a spot under the numerous ume trees, spread a blanket or a mat, enjoy the food and drinks offered at the festival kiosks and even catch a nap in the sun. We chose a deep-fried sandwich-like fish cake with pickled ume paste between the slices, and blueberry gelato for our ume blossom picnic.

Photos by Olivia S.

Our spot also had a great view of Mount Fuji, which is just a mere 40 miles away!

Photos by Olivia S.

WANDERING AROUND

To burn some calories we decided to wander around some of the hiking trails nearby - this allowed us to admire the ume groves from above too, while Mt. Fuji admired them from the opposite side.

We also encountered some local culture and history:

Horenji, a temple celebrating the goddess of childbirth and children; and
a statue of the famous agricultural developer and philosopher Ninomiya Sontoku, whose family roots can be found in the area.

Both were beautifully flanked by ume blossoms.

Photos by Olivia S.

You are most probably an expert in the ume blossoms by now, right? So let’s try to spot the difference with the equally-lovely sakura blossoms.

The first blooms have just started to appear on the sakura trees in the Japanese Garden in Hermann Park.

In Japan, the first blooms rarely belong to the Kanto region, but this year we are the top batter, with a current forecast of March 20.

May your spring bring blooming flowers, fresh floral scents and a peaceful atmosphere!

2022 Setsubun: North-by-Northwest - by Olivia S.

Japan-America Society of Houston · February 4, 2022

WHAT IS SETSUBUN?

Almost a month after the New Year holiday, most of Japan is in full winter mode - temperatures can go down to the 30s and it often snows. With the recent cold weather waves in Houston, this year y’all can maybe understand how Japanese people feel in the beginning of February - they can’t wait for spring to arrive! This feeling is nicely represented in the old lunisolar calendar, based on which spring arrives about 15 days after the coldest day of the year (around January 20).

In 2022, the day of spring’s arrival is today, February 4th, and to celebrate its arrival Japan observed the Setsubun (the change/parting of seasons) holiday yesterday, on February 3rd.

It is believed that the evil spirits are more likely to try to invade the humans’ lives at such times of seasonal change, thus the Setsubun traditions are all focused on keeping these evil spirits out and inviting the good fortune in the Japanese people’s lives.

HOW IS SETSUBUN CELEBRATED?

There are two keywords of Setsubun are “Mame-maki” (Bean-throwing) and “Eho-maki” (Blessed sushi rolls) and the common “maki” word is making it easier to remember, even if the two meanings are totally different (throw vs. roll). You’ve already noticed the food element, which is such an important part of Japanese life, recognized globally with the washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) being registered as an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO in 2013.

Let’s start with “Mame-maki”: why beans? It was believed that, of all the other grains, the soybean in particular is home to the grain spirit. Also, in a double play upon words, though two different characters, both “beans” and “the eyes of evil spirits” share the same pronunciation of “mame”, while “to roast” and “to shoot” are also pronounced the same. Thus, throwing roasted beans is believed to shoot the evil spirits in the eyes, scaring them away, while chanting “Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi!” (Demons out, Fortune in!).

Eating the beans is also a protective measure, but how many should we eat? The tradition recommends the number of beans that represents your age plus 1, so that your whole being is protected from evil for the entire year to come.

How about “Eho-maki” then? “Eho” (the blessed/lucky direction) is the direction where the blissful goddess is believed to reside in that particular year, alternating over a period of 5 years. In 2022 the blessed direction is “north by northwest”, and will be the same again in 2027.

“Eho-maki” (the blessed sushi rolls) started in Osaka - not a surprise, because the city is still called “the nation’s kitchen”; a Japanese university professor researching their origins (yes, that is a research theme!) located the first ad leaflet from 1932 created by sushi restaurants to boost their sales on the Setsubun day. The blessed sushi rolls spread throughout the country once the convenience store company 7 Eleven started to market them through their national network of mostly 24-hour stores in the 1980s.

There are 3 rules when enjoying the Setsubun special roll, and respecting them is said to ensure a prosperous year ahead.

While eating, please face the year’s blessed direction, without even a glance into another direction, not to lose focus on the benefits waiting for you ahead.
Please eat in complete silence, while praying for your family’s good health or the prosperity of your business (yet another play upon words, because “to speak” and ”to let go” have the same pronunciation).
Please eat the roll as it is, without cutting it (the seaweed of the roll is also meant to keep the luck rolled inside, not only the rice and the filling) or taking a break.

Courtesy of Yaoko Marketplace

By now we’re all probably focused mostly on the sushi roll (yummy!), and may forget that the Setsubun essence is actually linked with the blessed direction… I know that’s what happened to me! There’s still quite a lot to go, but please keep reading to see what I mean.

A LOCAL SETSUBUN EXPERIENCE

After the overview above, I’d like to share with you my 2022 Setsubun experience from the Shonan area, my home for just over a year now.

Just as the rest of the world, Japan is currently battling the Covid-19 pandemic. With the well-known Japanese cautiousness, I expected many public events to be canceled - and indeed, many of the nearby famous temples and shrines, that would normally hold the “Mame-maki” ceremonies, have announced cancellations online, same as in 2021.

“Suigyo” @ Ryuko-ji

Setsubun-luckily, I was able to find an interesting event: the “Suigyo” (cold-water ablution) ceremony at Ryuko-ji, a Buddhist temple in the beautiful Enoshima area, dating back to the 17th century.

The event started promptly at 1:30 pm, in a beautiful sunny weather of about 50°F. A local crowd of about 30 Setsubun enthusiasts witnessed 4 chanting monks descending the temple stairs, taking off their white, simple robes, and kneeling on their respective mats, wearing only the traditional festival wardrobe for men, the “fundoshi” (loincloth). After some minutes of prayer and chanting, the priests started to sprinkle bucket water on their naked bodies and they did so about 20 times in a row, while continuing to chant. Even if their bodies and their mats were soaked by then, they continued the prayer for what must have felt much longer for them than the couple of minutes it actually lasted. Then they put on the white robes again and returned to the temple, the chanting continuing until we could not see them any longer.

This roughly 7-minute ceremony symbolizes the purification of the body and soul and takes place before important Buddhist services, such as the Setsubun one. Because, yes, only about 15 minutes after the water-ablution ceremony, all the 4 monks were ready to start the Setsubun service, dressed in the multiple-layered priest kimonos, not even seeming to notice the cold temperatures inside the temple - the general public area had space heaters installed for attending the service comfortably.

Since I was planning to attend the Setsbun ceremony at another nearby shrine in less than one hour, I unfortunately could not attend the service until the end, which would have granted me some lucky beans - even with the “mame-maki” ceremony canceled, small bags of beans were to be distributed.

And this may have marked the beginning of the unfortunate streak of the day…

Enoshima Jinja

A temple and a shrine seemed the perfect combination - Japan’s religious life is definitely defined by both Buddhism and Shinto.

Enoshima Jinja (a shrine dating back to the 9th century) did warn about the cancelation of the “mame-maki” ceremony on their website, and it also listed the Setsubun Shinto ritual taking place three times. We (my friend Maki-san, her 4-month old, and I) reached the right place in time for one of them, just to find out that only guests with a reservation could attend the Setsubun Shinto ritual. Quite surprised, I tried to explain that there was no mention of reservations on their website, so I was politely offered a private purification ceremony (not the Setsubun one); I politely refused since it was defying the purpose of my visit. Still a little awe-struck, I continued to take pictures, as the entire place is truly beautiful, as you can see…

And I also purchased some “fuku mame” (lucky beans) in the attempt to brush away the unfortunate events that had unfolded.

While walking around, we could peek into the room where the reservation-only ceremony was held, and understand that it was actually a Shinto prayer, with a slightly-changed content to make it special for Setsubun, but which most probably would not have allowed any photographs to be taken.

On top of it all, on the way back home, my friend told me about an actual “mame-maki” ceremony at a local shrine further away from the area I chose (but probably reachable if we had left right after the cold-water ablution ceremony), which was about to end just as I was finding out about it taking place.

Shirahata Jinja

So please allow me to share just some lines about the adorable way Shirahata Jinja (a shrine dating back to at least the 12th century) celebrated Setsubun this year.

The “mame-maki” took place throughout the day in 15-minute increments based on reservations (of course!) allowing only 30 guests each time; the main guests were the little ones because the main hosts were actual demons (local volunteers) scared away by the beans thrown by the main guests (little ones + parents) helped by some local historical figures related to the shrine’s old history. It all does sound like a very safe, well-planned, picture-worthy event, and most probably the roughly 550 guests who attended enjoyed it fully.

I am able to share this information with you because of their exquisite and timely website update - great job overall! I am seriously considering volunteering for their Setsubun celebration next year!

SETSUBUN AT HOME & LESSONS LEARNED

My last stop on the way home was the local supermarket to secure our special Setsubun dinner; several sortiments of “eho-maki” were offered and many customers, including myself, opted for the ready-to-eat option, even if “eho-maki” ingredients DIY sets were also offered for the more adventurous or experienced.

The bean part of the Setsubun food was also covered of course, with a huge variety of bean-based sweets, demon posters and masks.

My Setsubun ended at home, enjoying blessed rolls (a mix of three with seafood ingredients and one with pork cutlet) and beans (the shrine lucky ones and some sweet ones with coffee-flavored-chocolate coating), while trying to remember all the rules to be followed, and also to forget the less successful part of the day. They were all delicious and, as usually on a special occasion, I definitely ate too much.

Trying to make more sense of what happened and decide on how to put together this piece, I shared the day's experiences with my husband. Our conversation led up to several valuable lessons - I guess it’s never too late to learn?

Make reservations as often as you can
Don’t assume, but triple check everything
Don’t be ashamed to ask the locals for advice
Practice what you preach***

***If you read this far (THANK YOU & Otsukaresama-desu!) and are wondering what the last one means…

The blessed direction this year is indeed North-by-Northwest!

Courtesy of Encyclopedia Britannica and Google

Welcoming Spring with a Fresh Perspective

Japan-America Society of Houston · February 4, 2022

Welcome to JASH’s new blog featuring JASH Japan Correspondent, Olivia S.!

Olivia is an accomplished international event specialist who has coordinated conferences and events for independent, nonprofit research organizations and luxury global hotel chains alike.

Olivia earned both her bachelor and master degrees in human studies from Kyoto University. Her keen interest in tourism and hospitality also led her to pursue a master’s in international hospitality and tourism management from the University of South Carolina.

Utilizing her proficiency in Japanese and English, as well as her native language Romanian, Olivia-san enjoys communicating information on authentic adventures and local trends to enhance visitor experience.

The former resident of Houston now lives in the Shonan area in Japan, and will be sharing special Japan insights from her new home.

Follow the JASH Omotenashi - Shared Experiences blog for stories from Olivia that are certain to help you grow your Japan bucket list!